A proud display of national cuisine in Albufeira

As we arrived at the NAU São Rafael Suites hotel, we were guided to the restaurant and greeted by upbeat, knowledgeable staff. The interior displays chic, modern, and colourful Portuguese décor, drenched in ambient lighting. We were seated in a spacious, cosy, comfy booth in a corner overlooking the rest of the restaurant.

The Tascaria has recently become pet-friendly, so my little shiatsu Daisy was able to join us. She was immediately given a water bowl and some “Tender Loving Care” dog food for her pampering. There aren’t many establishments in the area that allow pets, but in the words of our concierge, “animals are almost like people, they’re a part of our family”.

A traditional experience

This restaurant offers a wide range of traditional Portuguese dishes that suit all tastes, each sourced locally, from Alentejo pork to octopus caught off the coast. We were welcomed with a lovely glass of champagne and a breakdown of the menu. The food is typical of Portuguese cuisine but elevated to match the fine-dining experience.

For our couvert, we had a selection of several delectable ingredients. Two types of bread, the caseiro and the broa de milho, with butter to spread upon them. On the side were some marinated carrots and olives seasoned with garlic, herbs, and olive oil. We got our first look at the plates, painted blue with intricate details, reminiscent of azulejo art.

We then moved on to entrees: an octopus salad, presented in the traditional Algarve style, harmoniously cooked and seasoned with fresh herbs. The dish comprises red and green peppers, onions, and chickpeas, adding a bit of crunch to the incredibly soft, warm texture of the octopus. Alongside it, we received some crispy Rissóis de Camarão (Shrimp Rissoles), which had a creamy filling that melts in your mouth, accompanied by a smooth, zesty dip with a hint of lemon, and a glass of Algarvian Malaca rosé to lift our palate.

Coming now to the main course, we were blessed with two staples of Portuguese cuisine: codfish and duck rice. The seafood shines as the star of the first dish, requiring only a pinch of salt and pepper, baked potatoes, and sautéed onions to complement the dish’s simplicity with some much-appreciated sweetness, paired with the Às Claras white wine, also from the Algarve region. The duck rice was served with the Sequeira Reserva Tinto Magnum red wine, whose bitterness enhanced the salty components of the dish. This contained chorizo, fried to perfection to bring out the rest of the flavours, with soft rice, while the surface layer held a satisfying crunch.

To complete our meal, we had crème brûlée and baba de camelo, a traditional Portuguese dessert made with condensed milk and eggs, topped with a crumbly cookie. It was a sweet yet savoury delight, which was velvety and creamy. The crème brulée arrived as a small work of art – silky custard beneath a brittle, caramelised sugar crust that cracked under the spoon. This experience was wrapped in a ribbon with a final serving of coffee and a shot of Medronho Aguardente, lightly sprayed over the hot drink to intensify its aroma.

The chef’s vision

Following this truly memorable dining experience, we had the opportunity to speak to Vítor Monteiro, the chef who runs the establishment. “This Portuguese cuisine, all the flavours, is a taste of home”, he told Central Magazine. “There are already many fine dining concepts, lots of Michelin stars, but we were lacking a restaurant making tasty yet classy, typical Portuguese food.”

Not long ago, the chef returned to the culinary scene, enthusiastic about bringing out the best in the space and its staff. “Nowadays, I spend most of my time passing my techniques onto my team”, he elaborated. “I want to delegate to them, teach them, and set them up to be the next chef. I’m also passing on what was passed down to me, because all these flavours come from the memories I made growing up. It’s the part of the soul of everyone who grew up here.”

In his cooking, there’s a sense of pride for his country and its unique cuisine. “We want to represent our native ingredients, as they’re all from around this region. We try to make nationalist food”, Vítor explained. “Here, we have the best fish in the world. The best seafood in the world. There’s nothing better than some clams, conches, barnacles, and sea urchin eggs. This freshness reminds me of the rough waves of a stormy day on the beach.”

“We’re also planning to create an area here at the hotel where we can grow our own aromatic herbs”, he revealed his intentions to invest further into sourcing the ingredients locally. “I would like to find a way to incorporate the traditional Algarve chocolate into the menu as well, which is made of carob, and its flavour is even stronger. You’d almost think you’re eating cinnamon.”

The chef is currently making big moves for the restaurant, and he’s just getting started. “I don’t want to keep things as is. I want to settle in, clear the path for the future, and bring it to life in my own style”, Vítor concluded. “I want to align everyone on the team with my vision, and from there, not even the sky’s the limit.”

To discover more about their concept, cuisine, and atmosphere, visit their Instagram page: @tascariasaorafael.